Buying a Collector Muscle Car

 

Buying a Collector Muscle Car

Top 10 Buying Mistakes

Phrasing a question to a seller properly is important to get a good answer that will be useful for you. Asking “What work needs to be done? will infer there is always something to be attended to, on an automobile and could get a helpful reply, but asking “What is wrong with the car? can put the seller on the defensive side and you will most likely get “nothing” as an answer.

© Sprokop | Dreamstime.com – Rusty Car By Gas Station Photo

✖ Paying too much and exceeding your budget, be patient and the right deal will come around, at the price you can handle.
✖ Not negotiating objectively – don’t be too enthusiastic over the car, particularly if you know it is the one you want. Think it over, take your time, it is a buyer’s market.
✖ Not thoroughly researching target vehicles – the make, model and year are all important as are the production numbers. Well informed buyers will make their own luck, in a good way.
✖ Settling for less than you really want or buying something unsuitable for your purpose.
✖ Insufficient research for the particular car you are buying – reported accidents – mechanic liens or other legal claims on the car, also whether it has been stolen – all this information can be obtained easily and quickly.
✖ Too short test drive – try all conditions and road surfaces, at low and high speeds for half an hour or longer to get a feel of the car.
✖ Buying a poorly “restored” vehicle, sheet metal welded over rusted out surfaces and often freshly painted for a quick sale. These can be difficult for even a trained specialist to spot, at least for the first year. A freshly painted vehicle should raise red flags.
✖ Buying a rust bucket – too rusty vehicle cannot be brought back to new without a huge investment of time, money or both. Many coveted cars will have reproduction or original body panels available, but you really have no way of knowing how far gone it is and most likely it is best to just walk away.
✖ Water or flood damaged vehicle – wiring and most other electrical stuff will have to be replaced, but any mechanical systems including the engine could have also suffered damage that will have to be assessed. Even if the vehicle has been detailed, there will be lingering moisture or mold.

Online buying
✔ Check the seller for previous deals made online and a credit check might also be of some help.
✔ Scrutinize photos of the car posted online.
✔ Lots of questions prepared. Use the list at the end of the chapter.
✔ Research the car – service records if available.
✔ Inspect in person if possible or hire a professional to do an inspection.
✔ Online – pay in escrow – third party holds the cash until you receive and accept delivery of the car.

Have a check list similar to this one, then make copies and use one for each prospective car. If your restoration requires that all original metal (plastic/pot metal, chromed or stainless) badging, trim and grill work be as manufactured, then make certain your classic is the most complete car you can find. Numbers matching is desirable, as long as you check VIN to registration plus body tags for a perfect match. There may be identification marks stamped on the block, such as part or all of the VIN number. You really should buy what you like, but will lose bargaining power if you get excited about a vehicle. Stay as calm, controlled and objective as possible to get the best price from the seller. Checking the car with a mechanic is a good idea and becomes more important as the price range for the car you are looking for goes up. The money charged for a professional inspection would be easily recouped with an accurate report on what needs to be tended to. If you find something major, it could be a good negotiation tool to reduce the asking price. Mileage does count on a vehicle to some extent, but what matters most is how well the vehicle has been maintained. You will not go wrong if the classic you buy has a rare option or has a large fuel consuming engine. It will be well received where ever you go. Be certain to ask the seller if there are any extra parts or a service manual that might be included with the sale. Find out about any insurance or licensing fees that may be at a reduced rate for a classic car. The 80’s and 90’s vehicles are tomorrows collector cars, get yours in its best condition now and possibly at the most reasonable price as well for a long term investment.

Muscle Car Particulars

Details

Contact name

Location

Phone number

Make/model

Value Blue book

Asking price

Vehicle description, VIN, registration number etc.

 

Questions – you should have with as many as you can, such as:
✔ How long have you owned car?
✔ Who was previous owner?
✔ Why are you selling the car?
✔ Do you have service records?
✔ What work needs to be done?
✔ Do you have any extra parts or service manuals?

 

Introduction

Our intention with this publication is to help a novice classic car fan to find the right project car at a fair price. The success of your restoration will be determined by the condition of the vehicle you are buying. It is very important to start with a solid car to keep the costs in control; if the vehicle is far gone it will be futile trying to bring it back. The “Buyer Beware” headings give a good description of why and how to perform the checks listed on the last two pages; these are devoted to a pre-purchase inspection and a two page concise check list. You may want to copy and take them along to help eliminate any missed steps you will need to perform before finalizing the transfer of ownership. We attempted to design a program for any novice with modest knowledge to be able to do a restoration with confidence. The work can be done correctly, if not personally, the owner, will have the resources available to competently find needed services or support. This is the first and the most important step to owning your own classic muscle car. The information contained here will be updated and improved regularly as it is a very broad topic and your additions, feedback or comments are welcomed.

 

Index

Priorities & Cost Factor

Sealing the deal amicably & getting it home

Where To Look

Buyer Beware body inspection

Water/Flood damaged

Buyer Beware In Depth checks

Two Page Checklist

 

Priorities & Cost Factor

How flexible are you in the demands you make as to manufacture, model and year you want to own? That will be a deciding factor in getting the best mileage out of your dollars whether an original condition or a restored model is the right one for you. A restored model is likely the cheapest way to go provided you can be certain the work has been done properly. A daily driver is nice but will require more TLC and maintenance than a special occasion ride. Any daily driver will need basic parts such as gaskets, belts, hoses, brakes and suspension items readily available.

Very high motivation, thousands of man hours and an adequate supply of cash is a necessity for successful completion of any project car. If this is a first collector car for you, be forewarned, a ground up restoration bottom line can be astronomical even on a very clean car. If you are working with a limited budget then let’s ensure that you can meet that cost factor with a good cash cushion for the attention a worthy vehicle demands. For the big three American made car companies, most models can be maintained with regular production mechanical parts. Many after-market parts are also widely available – even for some less-seen models while the more common vehicle parts are still being made in many cases. Some of the more popular models from the 50’s, 60’s, 70’s and later will have reproduction body panels, chrome strips, logo’s, decals, even reproduction owner’s manuals with other badging still being produced and readily available, provided you know where to look. If you would like to save some cash or the parts are hard to come by, such as for a more uncommon model then a second parts car could be a good idea providing you have storage space. A parts car can be disassembled with a modestly equipped mechanics tool kit, a good quality jack and a portable hand held grinder, but time and patience are also valuable assets. The more tools in the box the easier the job will be – it’s that simple. If you have a rare car then you may be forced to manufacture your own parts or find a machine shop that will do that type of work for you. If you can improvise, it can save you a lot of cash in the end. 

 

Seal The Deal Amicably & Getting it home

A lowball offer on a vehicle may be counterproductive and could offend the seller, possibly to the point that, the other party will not want to do business with you. Try offering a price that is lower than the asking price – a reasonable offer with wiggle room for both parties. A cool head will prevail when trying to establish a price agreeable to everyone. Keep the negotioations light and easy, with an objective attitude. Asking the seller “what parts will need some work done?” is assuming there are always repairs needed, rather than asking “what is wrong with the vehicle?”, where the most likely answer will be nothing. The project can be measured in real time from start to finish, with the car in your possession.

You have found a car but it is on the other side of the continent. This is the perfect car but is not in driving condition. The freight in the continental USA could be from a minimum of around $500.00 on a truck for auto transport to $2,000.00 and more by truck or train from coast to coast. It would also be a good idea to make certain the transport of your vehicle is insured on the chosen carrier. The cheapest option will be if you have a vehicle with a trailer hitch and a tow bar. A more preferred method to transport a valuable collector car would be a flat deck single car trailer or truck; either of which can be rented in most major centers to get your newly purchased car home under your own steam. If the vehicle has been stored for an extended period then the wheel bearings are likely rusted together or ceased up. The vehicle may not roll without servicing them; a towing dolly could be used under the wheels. The cheapest way is to find a car near your home that will fill your needs and you can drive it home at the end of the day.

 

Where to look

Let’s start with where not to look for your project car. Curbers make a living buying and selling vehicles illegally, without a licence. You may know someone doing this and it may be a good way to go for you. A stranger selling you a car will leave no place to turn if there is any problem. The car that is being sold may come with transfer papers already signed by the previous owner but never registered. If a deal sounds too good to be true, then more often than not, it will be a sham. Have a list of preliminary questions to qualify each deal. Do not meet in a parking lot, you should know where the seller lives. Someone that claims they are selling the car for a friend or relative that is out of town, may be likely between friends, but selling to a stranger like this is a little bit off base.

A vehicle search can be done by phone or the internet, provided you can get the VIN number from the seller. A search covering the whole of North America can be done before taking the time for a visual inspection. They claim within one minute of having the information needed to do the search, you will receive an email with the answers. The information will include reported accidents, vehicles previous registration changes, if it is listed as stolen, a lien search, and transfer information relevant to the seller’s location.

https://www.carproof.com/docs/default-source/retail-resources/carproof-used-car-buying-guide.pdf?sfvrsn=4

Finding the right muscle car to fill your needs may be the most time consuming part of the restoration even if you are very flexible in the make and model of the vehicle you want for your project. The car clubs in North America are a good place to start a search for any collectible vehicle. Later on, the contacts and new friends made during meetings can be a big help to find that “hard to come by” part. The clubs are not limited to the big three American manufactures, but also include a host of hot rod, custom, imported and other specialty clubs. There are many chapters devoted to select models or years of automobiles as well, including Mustang, Camaro, Dodge Charger, Javelin and Hurst-Olds etc. The clubs hold regular scheduled meetings; don’t be surprised if there are one or more not very far from where you live. A lot of members are very helpful and in the know about restored or original vehicles for sale. These clubs are the best place to find local contacts, for both parts and advice.

The internet is one of the best tools to track down the car you want regardless of it being a private sale or from an auction house. Sites such as Craig’s List, Auto Trader or kijiji plus so many others can turn up an amazing number of vehicles in every price range, within a few hours driving time from your home. Ebay could be an interesting place to start and just may turn up your best deal. Sometimes, ads in local newspapers will have a classic, if you are a bit adventurous – check the estate sales in the same paper. There are an abundance of regularly held auctions by many companies including Barrett-Jackson, Auctions America, and Gooding & C0.

The auction companies will accumulate vehicles for upcoming auctions in their storage yards. You can often inspect vehicles and check over service records before the auction date – just click the contact link listed below for more info. A lot of cars from these auction houses come with a pedigree – showing previous ownership and often service records are available for inspection as well.

http://www.hemmings.com/calendar/

http://www.kijiji.ca/b-cars-vehicles/edmonton/c27l1700203

http://www.barrett-jackson.com/

http://www.goodingco.com/

 

Buyer beware

Body Inspection

Driving the car to your favorite shop to be checked thoroughly by a mechanic that you know and trust could be a few hundred well spent dollars if the vehicle is safe to drive, insured and seller agreeable. Not only are the under-carriage, frame, exhaust system, shock absorbers and springs clearly visible with the car on a hoist, you can also check the tie rods and ball joints for wear.  Looking up from the bottom is the perfect way to spot oil leaks as well as the rubber parts used as bushings or protective covers, which may be cracked and deteriorating.  A thorough inspection in a proper shop is the surest way to be certain that your prospective purchase is worth the investment. A coveted collector car, fully restored, will command a high price. A car 20 or more years old will not have a listed value through the normal channels, like Kelly blue book. You may have to go by the price other enthusiasts would endorse or subscribe to any number of appraisal sites a simple web search will turn up. Bring a friend when you look at a prospective vehicle, who can start looking at the car while you check the papers and deal with the owner. Check that the VIN number matches the registration; a look at service records and repair/maintenance receipts, remember to also inquire about the car’s history.  Accurate records kept showing type of repair made, with mileage and dates is a sign of a properly maintained vehicle. A small tool kit may come in handy when you look at the vehicle, but make certain to include a magnate and a circuit tester.  Any flaws you can find could be good fodder to lessen the bottom-line price.

Look at the car early in the day, and if it’s an option, show up an hour or two earlier than the scheduled viewing time. The best time to see and check over a car is during the day and when the engine is cold. Observe the body lines from all angles using the sunlight to help show imperfections and past alterations, such as dents and dings; sun will also show clearly whether any shoddy, quick-fix body work has been done to hide damage for a quick sale. Multiple shades of color on a car are a sure sign the cars has been in a number of crunches, with minimal repairs made. A magnate is a good tool to find body panels repaired and will readily show the places any filler materials were used over the sheet metal. Look for any rust or paint bubbles (they hide rust) in all the obvious places, but pay particular attention to the lower part of the car, underside of the doors, the rocker panels, the fenders behind the wheel well and the inner side of wheel wells. The exhaust system could also be rusty – take a look and try to wiggle the pipes – if they move then hangers will have to be replaced. While you are under the car look for oil leak spots and observe whether the frame is rusted or has sustained any serious damage due to a crash. Also look at any visible rubber boots, covers or dampers for wear damage – any cracked or dried out rubber components will need replacing.

Open the driver’s door while wiggling the door up and down on the outer edge – if there is play and the door wobbles, then the hinge pins and bushings will need replacing. This may be a good time to make certain the all the doors and windows are working properly. Make certain the key fits all the doors and the ignition switch. Roof openings of any kind, particularly slide open sunroofs have a reputation of leaking, check the headliner for water marks and look around the upper frame, on the roof, for rust and paint bubbles. Racing stripes look cool, but flat black ones running down the lower portion of a car lengthwise, should bring up red flags. The stripes can hide a lot of wear and tear from a casual observation with ease. A unit with a fresh paint job could also be suspect, so take a look at the undercarriage, behind the tires, on inner door panels and in corners may show over-spray from a cheap paint cover-up application. You will be able to make many other simple visual observations that do give clues on how an automobile has been cared for. After market non-functional scoops can be used to hide damage or rust. Check all door, trunk including hood clearance gaps and thier position relative to the body; making certain all are the same width gap – a miss fitting panel is a good sign of previous damage. A rusty car is not a good choice for restoration, although an intact one could be an excellent source of cheap parts. A vehicle stored under cover and/or from a dry southern climate is often a better candidate for restoration than a vehicle that has been used in harsh winter conditions. Look for a block heater with its tell tail 220 or 110 Volt electrical plug is a certain sign the car has been used in the great white north.

The bounce test can be performed before a test drive to see if the suspension is worn. Put all your weight down on each fender above the wheel and quickly remove your hands – the vehicle should return to the original position immediately with only one bonce, but if the vehicle bounces a few times the suspension (shocks & springs) are worn and will need to be serviced and/or replaced. Look at the car from each corner when it is sitting on a flat surface to see if a weak or broken spring is allowing one corner to sag – the vehicle should sit level.

 

Water-flood damage

Pure distilled water will not conduct electricity or damage electronics but water with dissolved sediment, such as salt and other minerals, which includes any ground water will be an electrical conductor. You can be almost certain all the electronics that were submerged will have to be replaced. Newer cars will have the fault codes show up on the dashboard when the car is started and could be suspect for water damage. Carpeting and seats can be cleaned and dried but the burlap (Jute, Jut) carpet liner will deteriorate and moisture lingers, much of the interior will have to be replaced as well. A flood damaged vehicle could have been detailed and thoroughly cleaned out but it is difficult to remove all the clues of flood damage. Be wary of any interior that smells sweet and appealing – scent could have been used to hide the smell of mold. Look under the side of the seats, if soaked they will stay damp for many months as will gauges (foggy glass) and other electrical devices. The underside of interior moldings may hold a clue-look for lingering moisture or water marks. Any metal surface containing iron is ferrous and will show rust when exposed to water, but some oxidization is normal on any unpainted iron alloy. Bolts, seat springs and other interior metal components could show an unusual amount of rust in uncommon places – under the dash would also be a good place to look. If you suspect water damage, have a trained and trusted professional perform a very thorough inspection before you purchase any vehicle that may have been in a flood.

 

Buyer beware

Under The Hood

Start with all fluid levels; engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid and battery acid levels are all important to monitor for trouble free driving. When topping up the battery acid, use neutral PH water. The automatic transmission fluid should have the fluid checked according to manufacturer’s specifications, normally with a warm engine running.  The tranny fluid should be a transparent reddish color, with no burnt smell and the level must be at the full mark for smooth function and to cool the automatic transmission. Check the engine’s oil level on the dip stick; if it has recently been changed it is semi-transparent or if it is black a change will be required soon – neither of these are bad signs, but they are indicators. If the oil is white and frothy then water is present and could lead to a large repair bill. The reason there is water in the oil, could be as simple as a worn out head gasket, but could also be a crack in the block or engine heads. Remove the air filter and if you find it dusty, its normal, although dust caked on the filter means it’s time for replacement, but splatters of oil are a sign of oil blow-by, leaking from the engine. All rubber belts and hoses should be inspected for cracks, brittleness and/or leakage. Dry old rubber and neoprene components are all candidates for immediate replacement.

Look at the wire insulation where they connect to the alternator or starter – if they are dry and old then a new wiring harness may be required. Battery corrosion will insulate electricity and may be easily visible, but not always –  remove the battery cable and look at the actual contact point for both battery connections. If the contact with the battery is not good, the battery will not be fully charged. The remedy is to clean all four contact points with a special terminal cleaning tool (works best), but a small steel brush, or steel wool will also work to restore a solid contact. A volt meter will tell you if the alternator is putting out the 14 volts needed to keep the 12 volt battery charged plus run the cars electronics.

The timing chain (belt) is located behind the water pump at the front of the engine and connects the valves in the engine head(s) with the crank shaft in the block to keep them perfectly timed together. An older car will have a steel timing belt, good for up to 160.000 km (100,000 miles) and possibly double that. American made cars, starting around the late ’70 begin the switch to a rubberized material that will last in the range of up to 80,000 km or 50,000 miles. The steel belt wearing out will usually give some signs such as backfiring or delayed response when it is time to replace it, but the newer type rubberized belt will suddenly break – leaving you stranded without warning. Check around the housing at the front of a newer vehicle for a decal with the mileage of when the last timing belt was replaced, a service record would be helpful. The belts should all be changed according to each manufacturer’s instructions to avoid a sudden breakdown. Make certain the water from the radiator is circulating, remove the radiator cap (cold engine) and you should see (feel) the warming water circulating within a few minutes.

 

Starting the engine

Starting the cold engine – observe if there is a puff of blue smoke that could indicate worn valve guides. The exhaust system is blowing out black colored smoke  the fuel mixture is too rich, but if the exhaust emits blue smoke then oil is burning and the engine is losing compression, possibly from worn rings on the pistons in the firing chamber. With the car running, remove the oil filler cap to check for oil blow by – also seal the dip stick tube with your thumb or palm – if pressure is felt or oil droplets are present its normal. Some oil blow by is normal but too much is a sign of wear. Gray smoke coming through the oil filler tube could be coolant evaporating inside – due to a bad gasket or a crack in the heads, and a cracked block is another possible reason. You may have a major engine repair ahead.

With a power steering equipped car, engine running, turn the wheel fully in both directions – it should turn soundlessly without jerky movement in both directions. The car should start easily, whether it is cold or warm. The engine should run smooth and regular without any bangs or clunking. It is normal for the RPM to be higher when cold than hot, as the automatic choke reduces the fuel intake after the engine warms up. Put the running car in gear (automatic) it should slip into gear immediately; no hesitation and without clunking. Most automatic transmissions have a clear red fluid for lubrication and cooling. The fluid should be above the add mark on the dip stick and not have a burnt smell. Transmission prepares or replacement could be just around the corner if the fluid is blackish color, has metal filings present or burnt smell. Most automatic transmission fluids should be checked with the engine in neutral, warm and running, but check the vehicle manufacturer’s instructions if you are not certain. The gears may “chatter” on a standard transmission that is not working properly, also if one or more gears are hard to find, it may be time for a rebuilt transmission. A malfunctioning clutch may be sluggish to grab with the engine increasing RPM rather than increasing speed as it should, however, the clutch may simply need adjusting. The mechanically operated clutch adjustment is a shaft and bolt, located under the hood, on the driver’s side, near the clutch (bell) housing, around where the clutch pedal comes through the fire wall. Turn the bolt after loosening the lock nut and note how much adjustment is left before it is maxed out. The hydraulic clutch has a master cylinder with a tube attached to the bottom leading to the slave cylinder. There should be no leaks at any join and the master cylinder should be full for correct operation. If neither operation solves the problem, the clutch is faulty and will have to be removed, which is likely due to worn plates and/or throw out bearing.

A field compression test can be done on the engine’s firing chambers to determine if the pistons (rings) are a tight fit in the cylinders, to deliver the engine’s full horse power rating. First, disable the ignition by pulling the coil wire on an older car. Remove each spark plug to check each cylinder, one at a time. Listen to each cylinder – they should all sound the same. Using your thumb, block the spark plug hole – note the pressure pushing your thumb off the hole – the pressure should be about the same – even and regular over each hole. Poor compression will result in blow by that sounds uneven/irregular and the blow by will be increased on a weak cylinder. This is just a rough check but will give you an indication. An engine can be properly pressure tested by inserting a pressure gauge into each spark plug hole and then noting each reading as an assistant turns over the engine with the key. If the battery is functioning and supplying power to the starter it is easy to check the engine compression. An engine that is not turning over can still be checked the same way, but by turning the engine over by hand after first removing the spark plugs. With the hood open try to turn the engine over with your hands where the belt meets the pulley at the crankshaft or the water pump. For a higher compression engine and/or a seized power plant try removing the spark plugs and spray some lubricant into the firing chamber though the plug hole if needed. Take care to disable the engine from starting before doing a cylinder pressure test. An automotive engine should have a pressure reading between 140 and 160 lbs. Cylinders with an extreme variation of 10% or more from the others should be retested for accuracy. If all the cylinders read about the same pressure; with little variation, this is good news.

 

Test Drive

Okay, the engine is warm! Let’s put down the top and go for a test cruise! Not yet. Make certain all the gauges, warning lights, turn signals, headlights, clearance and running lights are functional. Also, check the four way flashers, heater, defoggers, horn and wipers to complete the basic items. Heaters have a core similar to a radiator – a wet floor/carpet could be a sign of leakage which might mean a new heater core is needed. If the headlights go brighter when a running engines RPM is increased; it is a sign the battery is not fully charging; the battery or the alternator (generator older cars) or both components need to be checked and replaced as needed. Put the car in gear with the emergency brake on – if it holds it – its working and you can let it off with confidence that it is working properly. An automatic should shift into drive from park quickly – more than two seconds means response is too slow. While driving try coming to an abrupt stop and if the steering wheel pulls to one side it could be an alignment problem, low tire pressure or one wet brake shoe/pad. The transmission should shift to each gear crisply, although a higher performance automatic will shift sharper, with a bit more of a jolt than a family sedan might. Put the car through its paces, rapid acceleration is fun, but if you leave a cloud of smoke behind during a jack-rabbit start then excess emissions are the culprit and it is likely one of two problems. Blue smoke in a large screening cloud, as seen through the rear view mirror, is burning oil, but the black smoke is wasted fuel and the fuel delivery system should be looked at more closely. You can try the vehicle over all types of surfaces and all driving conditions, such as on the highway and in city traffic. I would have to try a twisty mountain road somewhere to get a good feel for the car’s handling. Clanks, clunks or other strange sounds should be noted and traced to their source. A high pitched whine coming from the wheels may come and go, that could be the squealers on the disc brakes telling you it is time for replacement. Drum brakes will have to have the wheels removed to check the wear.

Old gasoline in the tank may not be good and could prevent a stored vehicle from starting – fresh fuel is in order. The unleaded gasoline has a shelf live of about six weeks before it starts to deteriorate. If you are using a “green” gasoline like the 10% ethanol the shelf life is even shorter. A fuel additive is available from your favorite auto parts house to extend the fuel life up to six months, but read the instructions and follow them precisely for best results.

 

Checklist – Two pages

Under the hood
✔ General appearance – see previous pages
✔ Note any gas, oil or burnt smell present
✔ Battery terminals – check for corrosion
✔ Power steering, brake fluid check
✔ Water hose connection points – at the block and radiator top/bottom
✔ Any oil leaks – around the rocker covers/heads
✔ Water level radiator-pressurized – follow manufacturers cautions!
✔ Look for signs of rusty water marks staining the radiator
✔ Oil level engine – also color – white/frothy means water in the oil – major engine repairs needed
✔ Check transmission oil – color/smell – check oil level according to instructions
✔ Check belts including fan or the universal drive belt(1/2 inch play-okay)
✔ Intake manifold – rushing air noise – exhaust leaks
✔ Exhaust manifold or both if so equipped

 

Other easy checks:

✔ Very important that all warning lights and, in particular sensor warnings should all be visibly functional when the ignition key is in the “on” position, but all warnings systems are set to rest state when engine starts.
✔ Oil leaks and drips on and under the engine compartment
✔ There is no easy way to check if Air Conditioning works in the winter time at freezing temperatures.
✔ Rubbers on front end and suspension components – check for cracks & wear
✔ Oil or grease leaking from each wheels center hub – bad bearing
✔ Disc brakes will have visible wear indicators.
✔ Tire condition – check both in and outside tread depth or uneven wear
✔ The above tire wear pattern will indicate if front wheels are aligned correctly.
✔ The front wheel will wobble when lifted off the ground with the help of a hand on each side will tell you the wheel bearing is worn out.
✔ Are the muffler and exhaust pipes corrosion free and still attached to the hangers
✔ Check under carriage for signs of accidental frame damage
✔ The seal on the gas tank filler cap should be intact
✔ Under carpets and matting at the floor boards for rust-under the gas pedal, under the seats and in the trunk as well.
✔ Check the shocks and spring return – at each wheel

 

More thorough checks

✔ A standard transmission should have a clutch pedal adjustment bolt with visible thread showing on each side – located at the driver’s side of the engine by the firewall
✔ Drain engine oil – check for metal filings due to wear
✔ Transmission oil – check the level, color and the odor (no burnt smell)
✔ Drain and check both the inspection plate cover and fluid for metal filings
✔ Rear end (differential) – check fluid by removing drainage bolt – oil should be to the bottom of the hole.
✔ Remove wheels to check the brakes if they are drum
✔ Check brake wheel cylinders(each wheel) for leakage as well as the master cylinder – normally mounted under the hood at the firewall above the foot peddle
✔ Pressure test engine cylinders.

 

Driving checks

✔ Check lights, signals, horn, wipers and gauges
✔ Transmission oil checked/conform to manufacturers specs
✔ Starting – both cold and warm starts should be quick and easy
✔ Cold start – gray smoke is normal from exhaust
✔ Warm engine exhaust should not release any smoke, only condensation in cold weather.
✔ A warm running engine should not have any visible smoke increase upon acceleration
✔ Black smoke is too rich gas mix
✔ Engine runs smoothly but a “ropy” idle, with some shaking or vibration could be normal on high performance machinery
✔ No hesitation and no miss-fire or back firing during rapid acceleration
✔ Steering wheel has no free play
✔ Clutch pedal should have a minimum half pedal travel distance
✔ Brake should feel firm and not mushy or pedal travel to the floor
✔ Hard braking action should not pull steering wheel towards either side

 

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