How to Maintain Value with Proper Maintenance

 

Top 18 Ways to Preserve the Value of Your Muscle Car

Time will take care of a collector vehicles value, if you take proper measures to keep the car in as good condition as possible.

✔ Set up proper storage that is organized and ready to use even BEFORE you have the classic you want

✔ First impressions count – Wax on wax off-detailing done regularly will keep a good paint job looking bright and fresh for many years

✔ Put a cover on the vehicle when it is not in use, even if it is only parked for the night to preserve the finish. There are also four season car covers for cars kept outdoors, but these covers do not breath and condensation could be an issue..

✔ Abusive driving habits will add wear and tear making a restoration age much quicker; A muscle car must be put through its paces occasionally and driven the way they were made to be.  However, respect for the vehicle’s historic significance is paramount

✔ Accurate maintenance records are essential, even if you do the work yourself; Keep a log and the receipts for any material you purchase for the car.

✔ Changing fluids by time instead of mileage is the best plan for a collector car if it is not driven often.

✔ Rare options and upscale models are the most sought after; If you need to, add items that could have been optioned in your car when it was in the showroom.  If you can find an odd or an unusual optional accessory, it can make your vehicle very attractive to others.

✔ Repair oil leaks as soon as you find them. A gasket that leaks needs to be replaced, but sometimes the leak can be repaired by simply tightening bolts that have managed to come loose.

✔ Keeping the car original- change nothing without being very certain its an acceptable upgrade. Add nothing unless it can be later removed without a trace

✔ Safety and performance upgrades may be acceptable for some things like seat belts, or replacing drum brakes with disc, or even an aftermarket fuel injection system. However, be certain to keep all the original parts with the car to give any future owner the option of returning it to factory perfect condition.

✔ All maintenance/repairs should use the highest quality parts according to original specs.  An old part made by the manufacturer is the preferred choice with an aftermarket modern equivalent the second choice. Buying cheaply made knock off parts to save a few bucks is a very bad idea.

✔ Repairing the original part is preferable to replacing with a new one and in some cases it may be the only option..

✔ All gauges should be calibrated correctly, plus systems kept working properly and accurately.

✔ Use a fuel stabilizer and keeping the tank close to full when stored, will help prevent condensation from forming.  If the fuel has deteriorated or if you even suspect it has then siphon out the old gasoline and replace it with fresh fuel.

✔ Make a habit of keeping a moisture absorbing product in the vehicle at all times. Just a few briquettes of charcoal may do the trick nicely.

✔ Rust will always show up-deal with it immediately. Watch for signs like paint bubbles and touch up any minor scrapes or scratches with same color paint.

✔ Avoid eating meals and snacks in your classic – it’s not a restaurant-avoid spills and do not smoke in the car to keep repulsive odors and stains at bay

✔ Know which vehicles will hold their value best check:
http://www.nadaguides.com/Cars

 

Tune up-Cam & Ignition Timing

A properly tuned muscle car engine will purr like a kitten or roar like a lion on your command, without hesitation. A tune up is not about aesthetics though, it is about delivering dependable and trouble free driving, day after day, for many years, performing flawlessly. To keep an engine well-tuned, there are some parts in the ignition that need to be checked and/or replaced about every 10,000 to 12,000 miles in a car that is driven regularly. An engine that is hard to start, stalls easily, rough or ropey idle, and back-fires are some signs that mean an ignition tune-up is imminent, but a well-cared for classic would have these problems addressed before they appear. Other maintenance items that are normally done at the same time as a tune-up are to replace both the gas and the air filters.

© Ryzhanov | Dreamstime.com – Spares Photo

 An ignition tune-up would consist of inspecting the distributor and its contents, the points, condenser and rotor, as well as a new coil wire, spark plug wires and spark plugs. I would normally change the points, plugs and other components, regularly, but the distributor cap should also be inspected closely each time. Look on the inside of the distributor cap for cracks and make certain there is positive contact with the rotor which should not look burnt or have crusty deposits on the metal surface. It may be difficult to understand exactly what you are doing, but it is easy to perform a tune-up and it can be done by a novice, with a basic tool kit that includes a timing light. If you do remove the wires from the distributor to the spark plugs, make certain that they are returned to the exact same location to keep the right firing order. The firing order may be stamped into the intake manifold, or check the owners manual and you can find which distributor contact point is for number one cylinder in the owner’s manual, but this is a bit tedious and a mistakes are common; therefore, it would be much easier to draw a diagram of the distributor and which wire goes to each plug to keep the correct firing order. The spark plug gap must be set with a feeler gauge. The same gauge is also used to set the distributor point gap – this is adjusted with the point contact sitting on the top of the cams lobe. It is not important that you know exactly what is done when you set the ignition timing, but it is very important that you know when it is time to adjust or renew it. This is all you need to know, but simple explaination of engine timing follows for those that want more depth..

© Urric11 | Dreamstime.com – Spark Plug Photo

A four stroke engine is a complex symphony of movement perfectly orchestrated and repeated thousands of times every minute as you motor along the road. The crankshaft, camshaft(s), pistons and connecting rods are moving at a high speed and with great momentum. The pistons are moving up and down, pushed and pulled by the connecting rods driven by the crankshafts rapid rotation, while the valves are moving in and out to the revolving of the camshaft. The cam timing controls all these heavy, strong pieces with the timing belt (or chain) operating the camshaft in the head. The belt takes the energy from the crankshaft with each explosion and passes it on to the camshaft or shafts ensuring that the valves will be out of the way of the pistons at the perfect time. The cam timing ensures that all this movement taking place is controlled and purposeful. If the cam timing is not precise then serious engine damage can occur with a high price tag to repair. A rubber or neoprene timing belt should be replaced according to the manufacturer’s specifications to prevent major damage, but 60 to 80 thousand miles is the maximum life span for most cars. The timing chain used in many 60’s and 70’s muscle cars is a metal one and will give some warning that it is in need of replacement, but will last much longer than the belt style. The cam timing must be very close to perfect in a car that is drivable, but if a timing belt snaps the engine will die and the vehicle will roll to a stop. The engine would run very poorly, or would not start at all if the cam timing is off even a little. On a muscle car equipped with mechanical valves, they will also periodically need to have the backlash adjusted to maintain peak performance.

A muscle car engine has the following four strokes to complete each cycle:

➖ Intake stroke – the piston sucks in the fuel/air mix, through the open intake valve as the rotating crankshaft pulls it back down, the valve closes as the piston starts to rise compressing the gaseous mix.
➖ Compression stroke – the gas vapor is compressed culminating with an explosion
➖ Power stroke – the explosion forces the piston back down the bore hole, forcing the crankshaft to rotate
➖ Exhaust stroke – the piston rises and the spent gases are forced out of the firing chamber through the open exhaust valve.

The correct ignition timing is the ticket. The spark plug ignites the fuel mix at the precise time needed. If it is a little off, the engine will have a ropey idle, plus lose some power, but a little more off and the engine will back-fire or stall, if it runs at all. If the engine has no spark at all then the coil may need to be changed.

 

Car Covers – Mold – Moisture – Coolant

Covering your classic car when not in use is important, to keep dents, dings, tree sap and bird droppings from leaving a permanent mark on the paints surface. A breathable cotton cover will allow moisture to escape and protect the paint from gathering dust when the car is stored under a roof.  A waterproof outdoor style car cover is also available, which can also be used in an emergency, but a covered storage site is the more preferable option. Your classic may be placed on the back burner for a while and weeks turn into months, therefore each fill up should be treated as the last for the season. A fuel stabilizer should be added to any gasoline that could be in the tank for more than a month or so. Another protective measure is to keep the gas tank three fourths full when parking your car for an extended length of time, to minimize condensation and evaporation.

© Ratmandude | Dreamstime.com – New Model, Not Yet Revieled Photo

Another good practice is to keep mold and mildew away from the cabin with desiccant bag (astringent) which will absorb any lingering moisture. These commercially sold compounds are widely available from a variety of sources, but charcoal briquettes will also work well to absorb moisture. Whichever moisture absorbent you use can be hidden under the seats and in the trunk where they are easily replaced, but out of sight. If the carpeting is damp, it won’t be long before the smell of mold and other unsavory odors fill the cabin of an unused classic. To remove bad odors, not just cover them with a sweet scent, good results can often be obtained by sprinkling baking soda lightly over the floor, brushed into the carpeting, left overnight and then vacuumed thoroughly.

© Marekusz | Dreamstime.com – Water Pump For Internal Combustion Engine Photo

The only mass produced car with an air cooled engine made in the USA was the Corvair, any other classic or collector automobile manufactured here will have water cooling. When driving your vintage muscle car make certain the engine does not over heat, keep an eye on the temperature gauge, any rise above normal should be addressed immediately. The coolant is in a pressurized system, making it a danger to remove the radiator cap anytime the engine is at operating temperature, but when overheated, the pressure will rise proportionally, as does the scalding danger. Even a minor overheating incident can shorten the life of the head gasket, which seals the head to the block, but if the temperature rises too far, an engine can seize up entirely.

© Taro911 | Dreamstime.com – Radiator Photo

The coolant level in the radiator should always be kept to the top, the liquid should not be rust colored. The fan belt must be crack free and adjusted tightly enough to turn the fan as well as keep the water pump turning, plus other important functions. The hoses connecting the cooling system should be crack free and without leaks at the junction points; not only on the block, at the water pump and at the radiator, but also where they pass through the firewall to empower the heater and defogger. The coolant used should also conform to the manufacturer’s specifications and be replaced at regular intervals to maintain optimum operation.  Some later models will also be equipped with a transmission and/or an oil cooler which will also demand attention on a regular basis. A high performance muscle car may have both a transmission cooler and an oil cooler as original equipment or supplied by an aftermarket manufacturer.

 

Grease Nipples – Drive Chain

 The most common way to start a discussion on lubrication would be with engine oil, but for a collector muscle car, a lubrication job would make a timelier introduction on this topic. The “lub” job is done via the grease nipples, using a grease gun, and is a very important, but easily overlooked maintenance item, with our modern, low maintenance, start and go automobile technology. Cars made before the 50’s could have fifty or more places that needed to be greased as often as every 500 miles in some of the oldest vehicles. Any car made before the mid 1980’s or so will have some grease nipples to lubricate regularly, possibly around 20, as little as twice a year is a commonly recommended frequency, but following the manufacturers recommendations is the best advice. They are accessed from the underside of the vehicle and would have normally be tended to when the car is on a hoist, having an oil change.

© Amnachphoto | Dreamstime.com – Grease Nipple Texture Background, Spherical Joints. Photo

For a good number of American muscle cars, if not all, the grease nipples can be reached with the vehicle on the ground (buy a creeper), provided there is enough clearance. The grease lubricates the steering and suspension plus other important components and is needed to extend their life as long as possible. The drivers or the shop manual will have all the lubrication points for your vehicle itemized to make certain none are missed. Each sealed fitting must be inspected for leaks when it is filled with grease.

The owners manual is a must have for your collector car and most likely readily available from a well-equipped supplier, if your collector car does not have one. These reproduction copies contain piles of information on the operation and maintenance of your car, including recommended service times. The reproduction copies are identical to the original and will fit in the glove box for quick reference anytime specs are needed. If you do not have a booklet, the public library in your town may be able to come up with an original copy for you to duplicate needed pages. The back pages of this booklet will have devoted space for recording the services done at specified mileages. These recommendations should be followed and recorded with dates plus other particulars for reference later.

© FYSDesigns | Dreamstime.com – Grease Gun Photo

Engine oil should be changed regularly, often and by time on a vehicle that is not driven very far or infrequently. The viscosity or “weight” of an engine oil should be the same as recommended by the manufacturer. An engine oil may be straight 30”, “10-30”, “10-50” or any number of other combinations, and these figures refer to the oils density at different operating temperatures. There are synthetic oils available now and may be an option for some people, but others prefer the traditional oils. I will not enter the debate over which one is the best choice for a collector car, but I would like to say that the two should not be mixed.

© Norgal | Dreamstime.com – Engine Oil Cap Photo

The standard transmission and differential normally share the same type of heavy weight gear oil; this oil will become dirty or corrupted over time, making it necessary to replace it periodically. The inspection plates of both units can be removed to drain old fluid, but the gaskets should be inspected and replaced if needed, before replacing the cover. We all know about checking automatic transmission fluid, but on the level, a standard transmission is almost maintenance free although the heavy weight lubrication oil should be kept full. The vehicle must be sitting level to properly check the fluid. If you need to top up the standard transmission oil, then a leaky gasket could be suspected and should be repaired as soon as possible to avoid problems later on. Most rear wheel drive standard transmissions have an inspection plug located on the side of the transmission housing on the driver’s side to easily check the level. Remove the correct plug and the level can be checked with your figure or a screw driver. Do not try to remove the fluid inspection plug until you are certain where it is located – if you remove the wrong bolt on the transmission, the complete assembly may have to be removed to repair the damage that could be done. Lubrication make-up may vary somewhat between manufacturers, the viscosity of the oil should be the recommended one, but a heavy weight gear oil of some sort is used in a standard transmission. The fluid should just reach the top of the inspection hole, almost to the point of dripping out, as a rule of thumb for adequate lubrication.

The differential on your rear wheel drive muscle car also has an oil inspection plug. This plug is located on the back side of the rear end and is easy to find. It can be accessed from the underside between the rear wheels and at the back of the vehicle. With the car sitting level, remove the plug and insert your finger or a screw driver if you cannot see the gear oil inside. The top up can be done, but the reason for the low level must be sourced. A leak from the enclosed live axle would result in gear oil on the wheel rim, although may only be visible from the inner side of the wheel. Refer to the shop manual for systematic checks and a repair procedure.

 

Upgrades, Variations and Ethanol

Upgrades and variations from stock equipment can be a good thing, but the key to maintain a classic vehicle’s value is to make no changes that cannot be undone later. Sheet metal holes to accommodate scoops, sun roofs, speakers or any other permanent disfiguring will decrease the value of your car if they are not to accommodate original factory equipment. Upholstery done in a style that is obviously not original, non-traditional (factory) color paint, or a super mind blasting aftermarket stereo are given a thumbs down by most car clubs and enthusiasts alike. Putting a non-stock engine or changing other major drive chain component in a collector muscle car is also a poor investment idea. Factory correct or exactly as purchased from the dealer show room is very desirable in almost every car. There are exceptions, of course. Clubs all over the country are devoted to the wonderful hobby of creating Hot Rods, Rat Rods and custom road machinery. They have existed almost as long as automobiles. Unique cars are a testimony to ingenuity and self-expression, but they do not hold the same value as a numbers matching, original restored muscle cars do.

There are some changes that may be a good thing, such as safety and performance items, but even then the original equipment parts should be kept with the classic to restore original function at a later date if required, by another enthusiast. Changes that could enhance a classic vehicle include upgraded braking, better tuned suspension, more efficient cooling and a higher tech ignition system, but make certain to keep all the retro stuff. Consider having a ghetto blaster in the back seat if you want to play music, or mount any electronic devices you need into a console that could be removed later is another option. Customized vehicles may not be eligible for insurance and licensing breaks that are offered in many jurisdictions for original equipment restorations. These benefits can amount to thousands of dollars in savings for a MCF each year in some areas of the country.

Ethanol is commonly found these days as an additive to gasoline and done for a number of purposes. It is made from corn or grain and has a higher oxygen content than gasoline which equates to lower exhaust emissions of carbon monoxide gas. The Ethanol is a key ingredient in “dry gas” or other products that removes naturally occurring water molecules which are present in fossil fuels. The additive will absorb moisture in fuel, which kicks gasoline’s octane rating up three points. If you are in a cold climate, ethanol can also act as a gasoline anti-freeze. For all the above reasons an Ethanol blend is a “greener” alternative than gasoline and a likely choice for a modern automobile engine, which is developed for the purpose. So, ethanol – “Is it good for my classic collector car?” is the question I will address now.

© Paul65516 | Dreamstime.com – Hot Rod Photo

The ethanol does not create a problem for an engine in the short term, but it will separate from the gasoline and when it does, serious damage can occur to vintage fuel delivery systems. The Ethanol blend does not have the long life as regular unleaded gas does, which is 30 to 90 days maximum, while gasoline that has been treated with a fuel stabilizer will last up to a year or even longer. Any engine that is only used occasionally including lawn mowers, boats and a classic automobile will last longer running on ordinary gasoline rather than a Methanol blended fuel. If you do use a gasoline with ethanol added – make certain you burn that tank of fuel in a short period of time.

 

Long Term Storage

Machinery will work best if it is used regularly and your classic muscle car is no different. A short drive, monthly and weekly start-ups may be adequate for winter months in a cold climate, but more frequent use will help keep your car performing at its best. Regular use will help ensure all parts are lubricated and will also help to keep you on top of any pending maintenance needs. A vintage muscle car must be cared for more thoroughly than a newer car. All fluid levels, belts, and hoses should be checked regularly, routinely and often. Special arrangements are required if you plan on storing a classic for a few months or longer to minimize issues when the car is used again.

© Norgal | Dreamstime.com – Engine Oil Cap Photo

When parking the car for a long period – use a fuel stabilizer to keep gasoline from oxidizing or turning to lacquer, then clogging the carburetor fuel jets and even delivery lines. Stagnant gasoline will begin to deteriorate in as little as two months. Difficulty starting a classic vehicle after storage can be a very common problem. You can save a headache when the warm weather arrives by taking an important step before hand and treat your fuel. Use a good quality stabilizer which is available from any good auto supply outlet and make certain to use the recommended ratio. Add the stabilizer to a low tank just before filling, then drive the car for a few minutes to mix the additive. Keep the gas tank full to minimize evaporation and with the stabilizer you should be good to go.

Regular oil changes will protect the engine and help prevent sludge build up and minor corrosion. The oil changes should be done by time and not mileage as well. This is very important for any car, but in particular a vehicle that is not driven regularly, to get maximum benefit from the oil. A 12 Volt fluid pump can be used to extract oil and other fluids making this job easy to do at home and less messy as well. There are also grease nipples for the drive linkages, suspension and steering mechanisms that need to be topped up with grease and checked for leakage regularly. Cars made into the early 1950’s could have more than 50 lubrication nipples, but as sealed assemblies begin to appear, the service points begin to steadily lessen until we arrive at today’s maintenance free, start and go technology.

Even when you are driving a car regularly the battery needs preventive maintenance to prolong its life. Make regular checks of the battery fluid level and top up with cool, neutral PH water, if it is not a sealed unit. Do not leave the battery hooked up during storage periods and a good way to do this is to have, and use, a battery disconnect on the positive terminal. There are a variety of methods that work well to isolate the battery for preventing voltage loss and, as a by-product, they are also an excellent theft deterrent. One method would be a brass coupling to connect the positive cable to the battery. This connector has a removable brass bolt, which can be quickly taken off, cutting out battery power until it is replaced. Another style is a toggle switch hidden in a spot only you know about, the car will turn over, but it will not start until the switch is turned on. This switch interrupts the power from the coil to the distributor and is not easily found.

Protecting the finish is important and a cotton cover is a good way to keep bird poop, dust and dings away from the paint. Cotton is breathable and will be a positive measure to help keep condensation/moisture at bay, but still offers a good protective cover.

The interior of a stored vehicle can be subject to mold infestations that breed in damp environments, along with rot. Both conditions leave the cars cabin with an unsavory smell. Charcoal briquettes can be very good at absorbing moisture (astringent), or there are many varieties of desiccant bags or moisture absorbing products sold to put in the cabin and trunk of your classic to help solve the problem. Baking soda spread around carpeting and left for twenty-four hours before vacuuming could help remove bad odors too.

Republished by Blog Post Promoter

Most Recent Facebook Posts