Author: Ross Mills

Owning a Muscle Car

A few Pitfalls Precautions, and Probabilities

If you have a passion to drive a muscle car with limited money to spare then this guide is a must read for you. You do not need to be a mechanic but should want to know your vehicle. You could feel comfortable undertaking the removal and replacement of parts after having a professional rebuild them, if necessary. You would also enjoy knowing how to perform basic maintenance needed to keep your car in top condition. Even if you don’t plan on doing the work yourself, this book could be a valuable guide. A simple restoration can be done in a year or even less in some cases. With a labour intensive and challenging project ten years is not a long time to spend on a rare model turning it into a perfectly restored piece. This is a labour of love. Make sure you have time on your side particularly for a challenging project where you may have to manufacture some of your own parts or find a machine/body shop or enthusiast willing and able to turn them out for you. By starting with a solid project vehicle and by carefully keeping the car close to original factory specifications you will not go far wrong with any chosen project.

When the question comes up: “What is your favorite muscle car?” Then you could get a different answer from any number of muscle car fans. A multitude of manufacturers have sold collectable vehicles for a hundred or more years. For a select group of us, the choicest cars are American engineered and from the 1950’s, 60’s or 70’s, although any car that is quick for its time is held in high esteem by a majority of fans. A list of quality made collectable examples, worthy of restoration would fill a thick book. The models to be avoided or cast off list, would be larger though, with some examples turned out by almost every auto factory on the planet. Be an informed buyer to get the most pleasing results. If you have a pocket full of cash and are thinking of buying a fully restored classic muscle car with matching numbers then this book might still be a good conversation starter or library addition. You could also watch for the sequel “A Classic Automobile As An investment” – both books are exclusively offered and backed by the Muscle Car Network.

Make a List

Have a short list or longer list is even better to find the sweetest deal rather than one particular version or year only. A longer list will improve your chances of finding a suitable unit within your budget; but be certain to buy a vehicle that you will still want to drive after the novelty has worn off. Driving and owning your classic muscle for the long term will make a restoration a break even or better proposition for you. A vehicle made in large numbers will have maintenance parts for service and occasional replacement parts readily found. A low production vehicle will still have basic mechanical parts for the suspension, brakes, engine, and drive chain selectively easy to locate. It is not usually a problem to find either new or rebuilt mechanical parts even for many less common models because of shared components. Some of the highest performance engines, bored to maximum tolerances, often do not have as long life as their lower powered counterparts and may be more difficult to handle in city traffic at lower speeds. Chromed trim pieces, grill, logos, and other model specific items can be very difficult to replace and in some cases innovation is the only solution. Some parts and sometimes any part can be difficult to find without an intense search. A car that has matching numbers may be important but you can expect to pay a big premium to get them. A matched numbers car may also get a higher resale value but the car will not run any better than a car without matching numbers.

Model Track Record

Know as much as you can about your targeted car groups for the quantity of factory produced units made both for your specific year and its particular generation production span. Research any peculiarities or shortfalls for each model firstly and have some idea of whether there is a supply of after-market parts in production are two important steps. Some of the more commonly coveted collector cars have a huge aftermarket industry supply pool at competitive prices such as a Mustang or Camaro. Did you know that there are engine, door/window, mechanisms, even if they are sealed or disposable parts, that can occasionally be rebuilt and renewed using salvaged items. Parts including some generic springs, hooks and fasteners can be pirated from a later unit and used to repair an earlier type even from dissimilar models or manufacturers in some cases. They can be then reassembled with rivets, screws or by welding if you are knowledgeable. There are some of these components that have been in production for a very long time and are easy to come by if you know where to look.

Target Unit History

Specifically know about the car you are buying or just ask the seller if no history is offered. Some questions you might ask are: How many owners? Has it been in a serious accident? Has the manufacturer’s suggested maintenance schedule been followed? Is there a service record or receipts for work done available? All are valid questions. Proportionally, as the prospective project’s asking price goes up, delving into the vehicles past history should be more focused.  What type of climate has the car been used in? Has it been out in the weather or parked under a roof for protection? High mileage is not really an important issue on a vehicle that has been well maintained and cared for properly. Buy as complete vehicle as you can find. A realistic price tag on a good clean vehicle is the right choice for any project application. If the car has undergone any major structural changes to the frame or the interior has been altered with added holes in the dashboard or a “chopped” roof-line then leave it alone. They are good examples of things to avoid and a good car to walk away from. Mechanical issues such as delayed response, knocks, rattles’, grinding, excess vibration, steering irregularities, suspension clunks and clanks deserve a more thorough inspection. Either you or your chosen mechanic should give the car a closer inspection before closing the deal. However, needed repairs can be a good bargaining chip to bring the asking price down as long as you are prepared to address the problem later. Try or observe each lock, handle, window winder, instrument cluster and lighting; make certain all are present, intact and/or functional. Have a list of things that you need to check to avoid missed steps. A friend is good to take with you to help inspect especially if they have a mechanical aptitude. You can deal with the owner while your friend continues the checks uninterrupted. Look at the body tag and note the VIN number. The body tag will tell you the original factory equipment or even the original color and the VIN can be used to search the vehicle for clear title-free of a mechanics or any other liens that must be paid before transfer of ownership can take place. Make certain the ownership papers are with and match the car you are buying. Papers can be legally obtained if they are not available but it is an involved process and probably not worth your time. It may be tempting to buy a car from the internet, without actually seeing it, but this is a flawed plan for many reasons and could lead to a very poor start.

Rust and major accident free

Above all a project car should be within your skill level. Be prepared to at least do the removal and replacement of the new parts. A rust free, straight body is a very desirable piece even if the mechanical falls a bit shorter than you would like. Look down and up each side of the vehicle from all angles looking for continuity and poorly done body work. No rust-though damage on the rocker panels or on both inner and outer fenders to the rear of each wheel. A hood with any but the most minor blemishes is most difficult to flawlessly repair so finding one without fault, flat and true, is a big plus. Check thoroughly under side of doors, beneath floor coverings, floorboards at door post corners in the cabin as well as the trunk for serious rust damage. Body panels and other pieces such as the rocker covers and floorboards can be replaced on almost any car if needed, but these and other rusted out pieces will help inflate your bottom line very quickly. A car that has serious rust damage is not a good project car. A frame damaged in an accident or rotten is also not a likely candidate for restoration, even if you are a fully trained body restorer. It would be a very good idea to walk away from any of the above unless it is complete and cheap enough for a parts car. Body work is not difficult and can be done with a few simple hand tools if you have the patience and time to spare.

Preparation & Organization

Do not randomly begin removing parts without first having a plan. If you are dismantling the engine or any other assembly you must have an idea what needs to be done before you start to avoid unneeded work. “If it is not broken don’t try to fix it” is a good rule to follow. You must have the right tools and have the ability to use them. All the tools I mention below will be needed but there is no need to have them until the time is right so purchase additional tools as you need them. A basic socket set, open/box end wrenches, ball peen hammer, assorted pliers, screwdcutters rivers, etc. are basic necessities. However I would also suggest having a floor jack, axle stands, and a portable hand grinder. If you are competent a welder would also be a good addition, while compressed air tools can make “re and re” a breeze. If you have to buy a complete tool kit then allow around $600.00. Adding an adequate welder may more than double that figure. To begin with, all the removed parts should be organized, stored in groups and possibly in order of removal to simplify their replacement. Place groups of parts such as engine attachments, radiator assembly, inner door workings and dash parts in separate containers complete with the correct fasteners or attachments labeled and in baggies. An old wiring harness should be carefully checked during dis-assembly as a precaution. Exposed wires can be an extreme fire hazard when worn or have been spliced. When you receive a new parts order make certain they are the exact ones you need and the order is complete as soon as you get the shipment.

Parts-Quality and Knock-offs

Parts availability is very important and a very diverse network that can be opened up to you through numerous sources. There are a large variety of car clubs, numerous car swap meets held on weekends and holidays. There are an almost limitless number of retail outlets in all major centers with parts on hand or that can be brought in very quickly if needed. The cost may well be hinged to your urgency but a piece can be ordered from anywhere in North America and be at your home in less than a week by normal channels although much quicker if you want to pay a higher freight price. Some of these retailers will further assist you by taking advance orders for your project to have them on hand when needed. On the other end of the scale: The part you were led to believe was on the shelf is not and you find out when you put in an order that a part will not be in stock for a few weeks or even months. The manufacturer will not produce the part until a minimum quantity order list is full. This can be frustrating when your project must be put on hold until the part you need arrives. There are also specialists working out of their home or in small shops renewing simulated wood grain trim, plastic molded inner door panels, rebuilding plastic steering wheels, restoring/upgrading original transistor or tube radios as well as almost any other specific or unique item you may need or want. Some of these “small jobs” can be very expensive as well as time consuming repairs taking months to complete properly.

Avoid low cost knock off parts if possible. For example a generic or model specific wiring harness can be ordered for almost any vehicle, but a budget priced one for my car was only $100.00 less than a top quality wiring harness. The cheaper harness came without the clips or plugs on the ends of the wires meaning an electrician would have to spend many hours soldering or otherwise attach the needed clips. The quality of body panels, brake pads/disc’s, and many electrical parts including starters, alternators and any number of performance parts will vary in not only cost but also quality. Try to find the product that is at least up to factory specifications which will not only be more dependable but can save both time and cash in the long term. A new restoration can also take advantage of advancements in materials such as carbon fiber, more durable composite rubbers, space age sound proofing, stainless steel, and other top quality materials that fit like the original but look better and/or last longer.

Storage and Long Term Care

Regular maintenance, regular use and suitable storage are the most important steps you can take to protect your investment. Your project car storage area should be at least a covered one, even in an arid climate. If you are living in a more temperate area a garage would be a better spot and where I live a heated facility would be preferred. A restored vehicle you value should also be covered with a tarp to protect the car’s finish particularly if it is being stored over the winter or longer. The storage area should have at least three feet of room all around the car with more room on the work bench side to comfortably perform any of the required maintenance operations to provide enough space.

Thanks to Terri and Michelle Hamer for their helpful and amusing ramble on the things you may not think of before you own a collectible vehicle – the article is the first listed below.

https://classiccars.about.com/od/owningaclassic/bb/beforebuying.htm

https://www.restore-an-old-car.com/project-car-buying-guide.html

https://www.tflcar.com/2014/03/load-bearing-paint-top-5-pitfalls-of-classic-car-buying/

https://www.ebay.com/gds/8-Tips-for-Buying-a-Collector-Car-Online-/10000000177634804/g.html

https://www.reddit.com/r/projectcar/comments/163nfw/a_guide_to_your_first_project_car/

Epilogue

Make certain you have enough time to give the research needed for each of the make and year of vehicles on your short list. When I inspect a prospective vehicle to purchase I feel better seeing a chipped, faded, worn, or otherwise used but well-kept original look. This is more positive sign than a freshly painted unit which could hide many flaws and poor workmanship. On an older well maintained car I like to open the hood to see an engine that is not sparking clean at first glance, but slightly grimy although not neglected is on the positive side. When the engine is in need of cleaning it will be more obvious where any oil or water leaks might be. The rubber hoses and fan or universal belt should not be dry, hard, and brittle with cracks showing. If the wires leading to the alternator and starter are dry and crack easily then likely a complete new wiring harness is in order. The water in the radiator should be circulating and not be rust colored.  The water will be an opaque blue or green color if it has anti-freeze or special factory coolant mixed with the water and is also normal. The battery should have fluid (add clear neutral PH water) up to the full mark and not have corrosion visible on the contact terminals. The more time you spend finding a likely candidate for your project and the more selective you are in your choice, in most cases, will equate to less time and less money spent on a quality restoration. A parts car can save you a large sum of money in the long run if you have enough storage room for a parts inventory. A car can be stripped of all the usable items in a very short time with mechanics basic tool kit, a portable hand grinder, a jack and blocks. The hulk can then be towed or trailered away – possibly for free or if you know the right people then the leftover metal can be readily sold for scrape.

A word from some who have been there about the attention your classic muscle car will often attract every time you drive it. You will see a car in your rear view mirror on occasion – weaving through traffic trying to catch you, only to ask you a question or want to tell you a story about their car.  When you are in your vintage wheels people will want to talk to you and often times do not realize you may be in a hurry and don’t really have time to talk. When parked there will often be notes left on a classic cars windshield. I did buy a very inexpensive and complete parts car with one well-timed note left on my windshield. “You are the proud owner of a classic muscle car; now your vacation time will be spent going to a car show, car meet, the track, a cruise by or other vehicular oriented event rather than at beach resorts or golfing. Any but the most urgent home repairs and the lawn might be put on the back burner while you play with your car”.

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